Castles, Wine, and Storybook Towns
The Rhine River is one of Germany’s most beautiful and historic waterways. It can be explored just as easily by boat as by land. My first experience in Germany and the Rhine River Valley came years ago after finishing a semester abroad in Bath, England. I traveled with my parents and brother. We flew into Frankfurt, rented a car, and booked only our first night. From there, we followed the Rhine and Mosel rivers at a relaxed pace. We chose castles to visit based on the tours offered and the views from their walls.
During that trip, we covered an ambitious route that included the Black Forest, the Romantic Road, King Ludwig’s castles, and the ancient city of Trier. It was a fantastic introduction to Germany and left a lasting impression. When my husband and I later decided to plan a three-week beer-focused tour of Europe, I knew I wanted to return to many of those same places. However, this time with far less driving. With wine tastings and brewery stops planned almost daily, relying on trains and river boats felt like the smarter choice.
Getting to Cologne and Planning the Route
We flew nonstop on Air Berlin from San Francisco to Düsseldorf and began our trip in Cologne. This time, everything was planned in advance. From hotels and flights to rail reservations, we had it all sorted. After studying ferry schedules along the Rhine, it became clear that traveling south to north was the most efficient option because boats move with the river’s current. We took the train to Mainz and planned to work our way north toward the Mosel River, using the ferry as much as possible.
Boarding the Rhine River Ferry
After a quick breakfast at our hotel in Mainz, we took a taxi to the ferry dock and boarded the first boat of the day at 8:45 a.m. Eurail passes are valid on Rhine River ferries, which makes it easy to mix train travel with time on the water. We found a table inside with enough room to keep our luggage beside us. There was also an upper deck with outdoor seating for warmer days. The ferry offered a snack bar and an excellent audio guide in both German and English, providing context for the castles and towns passing by. By mid-morning, we were sipping local Riesling and watching vineyard-covered hills drift past the windows.
Stop One: Bacharach and Burg Stahleck
Our first stop was the postcard-perfect town of Bacharach. We had hoped to find luggage lockers at the dock, but there were none. After carefully rolling our bags over the cobblestones, we stopped at the tourist office, where they kindly agreed to store our luggage. From there, we walked uphill to Burg Stahleck, a castle that now operates as a hostel and offers one of the most affordable ways to spend a night inside castle walls. While we weren’t able to see much of the interior since we weren’t guests, the views from the grounds were well worth the climb. The small snack bar made for a pleasant break.
Hiking with Dogs in the Rhine Valley
As we made our way back through town, we noticed how common it was to see travelers hiking with their dogs. One particularly memorable couple was trekking along with a long-haired dachshund. They took our photo, and we happily returned the favor. It was one of those small travel interactions that make a day more memorable.
Oberwesel, Lunch, and Castle Trails
We boarded the next ferry north and continued on to Oberwesel, another town framed by medieval walls and castle ruins. Once again, there were no luggage lockers at the dock, and the tourist office was closed for lunch. Taking that as a sign, we decided it was time to eat. We found a charming half-timbered tavern near the base of the hiking trail that leads up to the castle. The menu was filled with hearty regional dishes, homemade bread, and local wine. The staff generously allowed us to store our luggage in a supply room while we explored.
Hiking the Rhine Castle Trails
With full stomachs and lighter shoulders, we started the hike uphill. The trail is steep in places, but much of it is paved with stone, and steps appear in the steepest sections. Clear signage and distance markers make it manageable even for casual hikers. The effort is rewarded with sweeping views of the Rhine and the surrounding valley.
Upper Middle Rhine Valley World Heritage Site
This stretch of the river is part of the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that spans roughly 65 kilometers between Bingen and Koblenz. The Rhine has served as a vital trade route since prehistoric times. Today more than 60 small towns and approximately 40 castles line its banks. Control of this river meant power, wealth, and influence, leading to centuries of conflict over land, tolls, and territory—and undoubtedly more than a few royal rivalries.
Schloss Schönburg: A Fairytale Castle
One of my favorite stops along this route is Schloss Schönburg, a beautifully restored castle that now operates as a hotel and offers tours. On my first trip to Germany, my family stayed here, with my parents and brother sleeping in the former guardhouse. Meanwhile, I stayed in a small room cantilevered over the courtyard. This time, we stopped in for chocolate cake and coffee and wandered the grounds. The mix of architectural styles and materials gives the castle a fairytale quality that never gets old.
Lorelei Rock and the Journey to St. Goar
After retrieving our luggage from the tavern, we returned to the dock and continued north toward St. Goar. We had reservations near Rheinfels Castle for the night. This portion of the Rhine is one of its most dramatic and challenging. A deep S-curve through the valley marks this dangerous area. Legend says the Lorelei’s song distracted sailors and wrecked many ships here. This siren sits atop the rock above the river. Fog only added to the danger, making navigation treacherous. Today, a modern lighting system helps boats safely maneuver through the bend.
Why the Rhine Ferry Is Worth It
I’ll share more about St. Goar and Rheinfels Castle in my next post, but traveling the Rhine by ferry was easily one of the highlights of this journey. Traveling on water allowed us to see both sides of the valley. Train travel simply doesn’t offer this perspective. It required a bit of planning and flexibility, but the views, the pace, and the experience made it more than worth the effort.
Cheers,
Amy
Read our other German posts: Cologne, Burg Rheinfels – traveling the Rhine, Marksburg Castle, Burg Eltz, Heidleberg , Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Neuschwanstein Castle, Hohenschwangau, Linderhof