How to get there
Portofino is reachable by car, train, bus and boat. We arrived from Milan via train to Santa Margherita Ligure Train Station. From there, we took a cab to our hotel, but you can also catch a bus. Once at your hotel, there are foot paths that lead to the piazza. From there, you can catch a ferry to neighboring villages or towns. I can’t remember the parking situation, but parking is extremely limited in this coastal town.
There are not many choices where to stay in Portofino if you are looking to sleep within the village. We stayed at the Hotel Piccolo and absolutely loved it! I was not sure if the photos of the hotel were real or Photoshopped. They were real alright….heaven! Our room had two sets of french doors that opened up onto the balcony. This balcony overlooked the private cove and beach. A standard European breakfast spread of meats, cheeses, fruit, yogurt, pastries, juice, and the best coffee was provided. What’s not to love!
Amazing view from our room. *Note the road in and out of town does run in front of the hotel. During the day there is some noise but it did not disturb our sleep. We found it entertaining to sit and watch the sunset. Moreover, watching all the fancy cars coming in and out of town was fascinating.
An option to splurge on
If you want to be up in the clouds Hotel Splendido might be the choice for you. It was way out of our price range. However, we had a wonderful dinner there. There is a shuttle that will pick you up in the piazza or right outside Hotel Piccolo. This shuttle takes you up and down the hill.
Exploring by foot
We enjoyed taking the walk paths and marveling at the view at every turn. On our first full day, we walked into town and then up to Castello Brown. The castle overlooks the harbor. Pictures do not do this view justice! Portofino sits on a rocky hook that reaches out into the Tigullian Gulf. Thus, there is water on three sides of the castle. I have a panoramic photo of this view in my office at work. It almost beats not having an actual window. We stopped for a glass of Sangria on the way down from the Castello.
A day trip to San Fruttoso
San Fruttoso was established in the year 259 by monks that were exiled. After touring the structures, you can pay a guy to take you out in a row boat. This is to catch a glimpse of the Cristo. Think of the statue looking over Rio de Janeiro underwater. You can also scuba dive for a closer look. However, we were fine looking through the scope.
We caught another ferry north to the next town of Camogli. There is a boardwalk with shops, restaurants and places to rent lounge chairs on the beach. After lunch, we lounged on the beach before taking a bus back to Portofino.
Budget friendly option
The next day, which was our last, we took the footpaths south to Paraggi, a little beach town. We then caught the train to Pisa. Hotel Argentina would be a great budget alternative for staying in Portofino.
I love Portofino because the pace is slower than the big three (Venice, Florence, and Rome). It does not have a crazy amount of steps like Positano. Additionally, it feels like time stays still. My heart longs to go back. Maybe in a few years for our 10th anniversary.